From Milwaukee’s north side to James Beard Glory: Dane Baldwin’s Culinary Journey

In the heart of Milwaukee’s vibrant culinary scene, Chef Dane Baldwin stands as a testament to the power of perseverance, passion, and the transformative nature of the kitchen. HYFIN’s “Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow” series recently sat down with the James Beard Award-winning chef to explore his remarkable journey from a struggling high school student to one of the city’s most celebrated culinary figures.

Baldwin’s story gains even more relevance as he prepares to showcase his talents alongside fellow Milwaukee culinary stars Chefs Zakiya Courtney of Vegan Soul and Jason Alston of Heaven’s Table at HYFIN’s upcoming Anti-Gala: The Wiz on October 10. This event celebrates Milwaukee’s diverse culinary landscape and highlights the city’s ability to nurture and elevate homegrown talent.

Born and raised on Milwaukee’s north side, Baldwin’s path to culinary stardom was far from conventional. “I almost didn’t graduate high school,” he reveals, recounting how he juggled two jobs during his senior year. However, this early display of work ethic would become a defining characteristic of his career.

Baldwin’s culinary journey began unexpectedly at Gil’s Cafe on Downer Avenue. “I didn’t have any experience cooking in a kitchen,” Baldwin admits. “But I had some experience operating around food.” This humble beginning laid the foundation for a career marked by continuous learning and growth.

From Gil’s, Baldwin’s culinary odyssey took him through a diverse array of Milwaukee kitchens. He worked at Dancing Ganesha, an Indian restaurant, where he expanded his culinary repertoire. His time at Bacchus proved transformative, as he cooked alongside notable chefs like Jarvis Williams. “If that’s your crew, you as strong or as weak as the… we’re doing pretty great,” Baldwin reflects on this period.

Baldwin’s career continued to ascend as he took on roles at the Milwaukee Art Museum cafe and Bar. Each position added new skills and perspectives to his culinary toolkit. “I’m gonna cook as much as I can,” he recalls thinking, embodying the dedication that would eventually lead him to culinary excellence.

A significant milestone in Baldwin’s career was his appointment as executive chef at Mr. B’s Steakhouse in Brookfield. This role presented new challenges, including earning the respect of long-time employees and balancing traditions with new ideas. Here, Baldwin honed his leadership skills, learning to navigate the complexities of running a high-end establishment.

His time with the Bartolotta Restaurant Group further refined his skills in fine dining. Working at Harbor House, Baldwin embraced a supportive role, always striving to make his chef’s job easier. This experience proved invaluable when he later stepped into leadership positions.

Baldwin’s culinary journey reached its zenith with the opening of The Diplomat in 2017. Located on Milwaukee’s East Side, The Diplomat embodies Baldwin’s culinary philosophy of quality over quantity. “When I opened my doors, I think I had like, maybe 10 or 12 savory items on the menu,” Baldwin explains. “Because that’s what we were doing very well.” This focused approach has allowed The Diplomat to evolve into a 100-seat restaurant that balances intimacy with broader appeal.

The restaurant’s success caught the attention of the James Beard Foundation, leading to Baldwin’s nominations in 2019 and 2020. However, in 2022, emerging from the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic, Baldwin clinched the prestigious James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest. The significance of this achievement cannot be overstated – the James Beard Awards are often referred to as the “Oscars of the food world,” recognizing culinary excellence across the United States.

When his name was called at the awards ceremony in Chicago, Baldwin shared, “I don’t think my wife’s ever squeezed me harder, you know? It was a very nice embrace, and I walked up and… I was at a loss for words.” This emotional response underscores the magnitude of the award not just for Baldwin but for Milwaukee’s culinary scene as a whole.

Baldwin quickly credits his team for this achievement, particularly highlighting the role of his wife, Anna. “I have to absolutely mention my wife, Anna, who has been a huge part of our success,” he emphasizes. This collaborative spirit extends to his kitchen staff, some of whom have been with him since The Diplomat’s early days.

The James Beard Award validated Baldwin’s culinary vision and spotlighted Milwaukee’s dynamic food scene. “I think it’s robust. I think it’s vibrant. I think it’s unique,” Baldwin says of the city’s culinary landscape. He particularly appreciates the diversity of good restaurants scattered throughout different neighborhoods, which sets Milwaukee apart from cities with more concentrated dining districts.

As Baldwin continues to innovate at The Diplomat and inspire the next generation of chefs, he remains deeply connected to his roots and family. His journey from the north side of Milwaukee to the pinnacle of the culinary world is a story of determination, creativity, and community. It proves that with passion and perseverance, one can go from high school struggle to James Beard glory, all while firmly putting Milwaukee on the national culinary map.