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    Discovering her past: Element uncovers her roots through African Ancestry DNA testing Tarik Moody

Milwaukee

How two Black entrepreneurs are transforming Milwaukee’s wine culture through education

todayFebruary 1, 2025 1

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How two Black entrepreneurs are transforming Milwaukee’s wine culture through education

As Black History Month approaches, Milwaukee Wine Academy (MWA) prepares for its second annual Black Wine Producers celebration on February 16th at Radio Milwaukee, sponsored by HYFIN. The event epitomizes the academy’s mission to reshape Milwaukee’s wine culture through education, representation, and inclusive community building.

Origins and Vision

In a city where beer flows through the cultural veins and brandy old-fashioneds define cocktail hours, Dr.Jeffrey K. Coleman and Tim Cole are orchestrating a subtle revolution in Milwaukee’s beverage landscape. Their story begins in an unexpected venue: a now-defunct Black men’s professional group called Men of Milwaukee, where they first crossed paths in 2014.

“I was invited when I moved to the city in 2014,” Coleman recalls. “It was a group of Black men professionals from around the city and different sectors. We would meet for brunch and talk about our experiences as Black men in different sectors of the city. It was a fantastic way to meet people as someone who was new to the city.”

While the professional group dissolved, it planted seeds for a transformative partnership. During the pandemic’s isolation, when many turned to sourdough baking and Zoom happy hours, Coleman chose a different path. His long-standing interest in wine evolved into a desire for formal education, leading to a social media post that would change Milwaukee’s wine landscape.

“I put out feelers and said, would anyone want to do a wine certification with me,” Coleman shares. “Tim and I were friends, but we weren’t super close at that point. He said yes, and I was very much shocked.”

Their journey began with the prestigious Spanish Wine Scholar certification through the Wine Scholar Guild, one of the world’s premier wine education organizations. The five-month intensive study program, meeting every Thursday and Sunday, alternating between their homes, became a crucible for their future vision.

The experience proved transformative, not just in their understanding of wine but in revealing systemic gaps in Milwaukee’s wine culture. As they visited wine shops and bars throughout the city, a pattern emerged: the spaces, while not explicitly exclusive, failed to reflect Milwaukee’s diverse population.

The absence was particularly striking given known consumption patterns. Black women, recognized as significant wine consumers, were notably absent from these spaces. This disconnect between consumer demographics and retail representation highlighted a larger industry blind spot.

Cole articulates their response to this revelation: “We met the bar owners and everything, and everyone was great. None of the spaces were exclusive in any way. But were they welcoming?” This distinction between technical accessibility and genuine inclusivity would become central to their educational philosophy.

The pandemic-era certification process thus evolved beyond personal enrichment into a larger mission. Milwaukee Wine Academy emerged as a response to both educational and cultural needs, aiming to bridge the gap between wine appreciation and community inclusion.

Breaking Barriers in Wine Culture

Their journey revealed a striking paradox in Milwaukee’s wine landscape. Despite Black women being significant wine consumers, their representation in the city’s wine spaces remained notably limited.

“Going around to different wine shops around the city, we realized there was no one that looked like us,” Coleman says. Cole adds, “It was very interesting to even go into the wine shops and bars and not see any other aunties out there, because Black women definitely consume wine. It has definitely become a part of our lore and our culture.”

This observation catalyzed their mission to create inclusive wine education spaces. “We’re creating a space that is not just with an open door, but waving you in and telling you come on in here and ask any question that you have,” Cole emphasizes.

Navigating Industry Challenges

The founders encountered significant resistance while establishing MWA. “People didn’t really see the vision,” Cole reveals. “From the industry side, people were like, ‘Well, I don’t understand why someone would come to a wine class, especially if you don’t have a bar already.'”

Race played a pivotal role in their journey. “Being Black also presented a challenge. Always,” Cole acknowledges. “It’s Milwaukee.” The founders had to prove both their credentials and demonstrate demand for wine education in communities of color.

Challenging Industry Assumptions

The academy actively works to counter stereotypes about wine preferences, particularly through examining the complex relationship between hip-hop culture and wine consumption patterns. Coleman points to the fascinating evolution of Moscato in Black communities, which reveals broader insights about marketing, cultural influence, and wine industry dynamics.

“André Hueston Mack, who has a book called 99 Bottles, has a fascinating chapter about Moscato d’Asti,” Coleman explains. “He talks about how Moscato entered the African American community in the early 2000s due to rap culture, and particularly Lil’ Kim’s song ‘Lighters Up.'”

The story reveals an unexpected intersection of music and wine culture. “In that song, she wanted to reference Moscato d’Asti but she couldn’t get the ‘d’Asti’ part to rhyme with the lines before and after. So she took it out and just said Moscato,” Coleman recounts. This seemingly minor lyrical choice had far-reaching consequences in wine consumption patterns.

The resulting surge in Moscato’s popularity led to unintended market responses. “Some of the larger producers in California and other parts of the US started pumping out lots of low-end Moscato and sending it to liquor stores in Black communities,” Coleman explains. “And then that became like the Black drink, not knowing that what the actual rappers and people who were in the know were drinking was this somewhat sweet, but not queenly sweet wine.”

This history exemplifies the complex interplay between cultural influence, market response, and quality disparities in wine distribution. It also highlights why MWA’s educational mission extends beyond mere wine appreciation to address deeper issues of access and representation in the wine industry.

Educational Approach and Community Impact

Coleman, a Iberian Studies professor at Northwestern University, brings academic rigor to the academy’s curriculum. Their two-hour Sunday sessions break down wine fundamentals while encouraging personal connections to wine appreciation.

“People will tell stories about how this smells just like their grandmother’s farm, or this reminds me of a meal that I had on the 4th of July,” Cole explains. “For me, one of my favorite sparkling rosés just reminds me of strawberry starburst.”

Industry Response and Partnerships

Despite initial skepticism, industry professionals have largely embraced MWA’s mission. “For the most part, they’ve been very open to it,” Cole notes. “People realize that people of color are an untapped market and that by tapping in with Milwaukee Wine Academy, there is access to changes and diversity and more dollars.”

The academy has formed strategic partnerships, including with Thelma Carol Wine Merchants in Walker’s Point, which labels every bottle from Black winemakers or Black-owned vineyards. “I’ve never seen that in any other wine shop in the city,” Coleman notes.

Demystifying Wine Pairings

MWA has gained recognition for its innovative pairing recommendations. During a rapid-fire pairing session, they offered several unexpected combinations:

  • Fried chicken: Prosecco or Cava
  • Crab legs: Albariño
  • Smoked brisket: Australian Shiraz or California red blend
  • Lemon pepper wet wings: Off-dry Riesling from Germany or off-dry rosé
  • Fried catfish: Aged Cava or Moscato d’Asti for a contrasting pair
  • Chitlins: Tempranillo, chosen for its bold flavor and tannins

Coleman shares fundamental pairing principles, starting with desserts: “Your wine should always be sweeter than your dessert.” He challenges traditional rules, noting that even red meat can pair with certain sparkling wines: “If you have a really old, well-aged sparkling wine, like champagne or Franciacorta or Cap Classique from South Africa, those wines’ breadiness will go well with steak.”

Scaling Operations and Future Vision

Looking ahead, MWA plans careful expansion while maintaining educational quality. They’re developing instructor training programs and preparing to offer French, Italian, and German wine certification courses. “If we have someone new teach a class, one or both of us is there to observe that person and give them feedback,” Coleman explains.

The upcoming February 16th Black Wine Producers celebration will feature wines from notable producers including Dusty Baker’s vineyard, André Hueston Mack’s Maison Noir, McBride Sisters, and Mary J. Blige’s Sun Goddess label.

“Creating culture in Milwaukee is really important to me,” Cole reflects. “It is growing culture in Milwaukee, and it is creating something special in Milwaukee.” Through education, community building, and innovative programming, Milwaukee Wine Academy continues to transform the city’s relationship with wine, while actively addressing representation and inclusion in Milwaukee’s evolving wine culture.

For more information about Milwaukee Wine Academy’s programs and events, visit mkewineacademy.com or follow them on social media @MKEWineAcademy.

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Written by: Tarik Moody

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Get your tickets now for just $10 in advance or $15 at the door and join us at 220 East Pittsburgh on May 10th.